Fact check · cosmetic · drug · functional cosmetic · sunscreen

Korean vs American skincare: what is actually different?

The popular claim that Korean skincare is “cosmetic and untested” while American skincare is “medical and clinically tested” is incorrect. The real difference is how product categories, claims and sunscreen filters travel through each regulatory system.

The short answer

Different routes—not science versus no science

Ordinary moisturisers, cleansers and beauty serums are generally cosmetics in both markets. In the United States, a product becomes a drug when its intended use is to treat or prevent disease or affect the body’s structure or function. Sunscreens and some acne or dandruff products therefore sit in the US over-the-counter drug system.

South Korea has a “functional cosmetics” category covering products such as sunscreen, wrinkle-improvement and whitening products. The Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety requires evaluation or reporting and specifies supporting data routes, including SPF and PA evidence for relevant sunscreen claims.

Claim versus fact

Four common statements corrected

1

“All US skincare is medical.”

False. Ordinary US cosmetics do not become medicines simply because they use clinical-looking branding. Intended claims determine whether a product is a cosmetic, a drug, or both.

2

“Korean skincare does not need testing.”

False. Korean functional cosmetics have evaluation/reporting requirements and supporting data standards. Ordinary cosmetics in either country follow a different route from medicines.

3

“Korea uses PA instead of SPF.”

False. Korean sunscreens commonly show SPF and PA together: SPF mainly communicates sunburn/UVB protection, while PA grades UVA protection.

4

“American skincare is years behind.”

Too broad. Korean brands are often fast at developing elegant textures and layerable formats. Differences in sunscreen regulation and available UV filters have affected formulation choices, but one country is not automatically superior in every product category.

Sun protection language

UVA, UVB, SPF, PA and broad spectrum

TermWhat it meansWhat the label does not tell you alone
UVBShorter ultraviolet wavelengths strongly associated with sunburn and direct DNA damage. UVB also contributes to skin cancer.UVB protection alone is not complete protection.
UVALonger wavelengths that penetrate more deeply, contribute to photoageing and pigment change, and also play a role in skin cancer. UVA passes through ordinary window glass more readily than UVB.High SPF does not automatically describe the whole UVA profile.
SPFA standardised measure based mainly on protection against UVB-driven sunburn when the product is applied at the tested amount.SPF 50 is not permission to stay out 50 times longer, and real-world protection falls when too little is applied.
PA+, PA++, PA+++, PA++++A UVA protection grading system derived from persistent pigment darkening testing; more plus signs indicate a higher UVA protection grade.PA does not replace SPF. Read the two together.
Broad spectrumIn the US, the label means the product has passed the FDA broad-spectrum UVA/UVB test. In Europe, the UVA circle indicates UVA protection meeting the relevant recommendation relative to SPF.“Broad spectrum” does not mean all wavelengths are blocked or that reapplication is unnecessary.

What should a UK customer look for?

  1. Broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection from a reputable UK retailer
  2. SPF 30 or higher for routine outdoor protection; SPF 50 can add margin when application is imperfect
  3. A texture you will apply generously and reapply
  4. Water resistance when swimming or sweating, plus shade, clothing and a hat
  5. For Korean products, read SPF and PA together rather than treating PA as a substitute

Sources and further reading

Why Idalia explains sunscreen labels

What is the difference between Korean and American sunscreen?

That is why Idalia Aesthetics explains SPF, PA, UVA, UVB and broad-spectrum protection separately: the best sunscreen is not chosen by country alone, but by tested protection, suitability, correct application and consistent use.